Saturday, May 31, 2008

Cooking Basics (part two) [the dreaded homework]

Hey! Glad you're back! Remember that homework assignment? If not go read the last paragraph of Part One and get busy. While they are gone the rest of us will proceed.

Homework today is both easy and fun. All you have to do is recreate the meal you had at the restaurant. (you were probably thinking essay or something) If you're just starting out in gourmet cooking this is a very good way to get in some practice.

Compare your dish to the one the pro's fixed and rate yourself. Don't be too critical either. THEY had a recipe.... you're just winging it... so even if you come close... that's good enough for today. You can refine later. This is also a good way to start adding dishes from different cultures to your abilities.

BTW... don't be afraid to ASK your server what is in the dish if the ingredients are not listed. I've found that most places will tell you. Another tip. When looking for different nationalities of food to sample... go to little "mom and pop" places. If you enjoy their food TELL them and ask how they do it. Often they will sit down and tell you exactly how your meal was prepared. You'll gain insight and friends!

So much for the homework part. Now for the part that makes you head hurt... information!

Cookware

This is another area that you absolutely cannot cut corners on. It's okay to have some inexpensive stuff to drag out camping and such... use on the grill out back... etc. Cheap stuff is NOT for your kitchen. It will let you down every time by way of poor performance. Its non stick the coating will scuff and flake off... handles will come loose.... pans will bend.... lids won't fit right anymore... etc.
Cheap = Camping
Good = Gourmet. Got it?

Don't think that you have to buy the most expensive stuff on the shelf either. After a certain point all you're buying is the brand name... usually some Chef who's already quite wealthy and really doesn't need your money. Somewhere right in between the bargain stuff and the top of the line is the stuff that will work very well until you get your own cooking show on Food Network.

We're not looking for stuff that matches here. We're looking for what does the best job. We're also looking for a variety of different sizes and capacities. Sometimes we're also looking for different materials and coatings. Stainless Steel is the current king of cookware. Sauce pans, stock pots, skillets etc. Often I'll duplicate a pan... having one that is all stainless and another that has a thick, high quality Teflon coating. Which I use depends upon what I'm making.

Aluminum works well for griddles and is a less expensive alternative for that stock pot. Just remember that aluminum is a reactive metal so just use it for STOCK! Keep foods with a medium or high acid content OUT of your aluminum cookware.

Cast Iron! Contrary to popular belief cast iron isn't out of fashion. Properly handled and seasoned it can out perform everything else on the market for a lot less money. Cast iron is the original non stick cookware. After proper seasoning and years of usage it gradually takes on a coating of pure carbon. Carbon in this state requires *very* little additional oil prior to cooking and is completely non reactive to all foods. It's really heavy... and ugly... but the best stuff ever invented for cooking.

The reason most people have bad luck with cast iron is two fold. #1 They never properly seasoned the pan prior to use. (comprehensive instructions either come with the pots and pans or can be found on line) #2 They made the mistake of trying to wash the stuff the regular way when they were done. You NEVER put soap into a cast iron piece of cookware.. EVER! Rather, put about a 1/2" of very warm water in the pan... after rinsing it as clean as possible. Now... pour in about 1/3 of a cup of table salt. Rub gently with a soft cloth until the pan is clean. Rinse well and dry immediately. Follow that with a **VERY** light application of cooking oil. Rub that out with a paper towel until no more oil can be removed.... and you're done. Yeah... it's a lot of effort but it will reward you later.


CONSTRUCTION

Cast iron is usually cast as one piece. Some brands mix it up a bit and add wooden handles. I'd avoid those as they limit what you can do with the pots and pans. Lids for these usually fit fairly tight and are smooth inside. The exception is Dutch Ovens. The lids for these usually have little spikes sticking down. This allows condensation to form on the inside of the lid... collect on the spikes... and drip back down on your meal in a uniform manner.... thus basting your meal. Since cast iron is thick, dense and heavy it provides for very uniform cooking. It holds heat very well and distributes heat evenly. No matter how hot you get it... it won't warp. (Your meal might go up in flames but your pan will be just fine)

Aluminum pots and pans are usually stamped from blanks. Higher quality cookware is spun on a machine and a genuine human uses tools to coax it into the proper shape and thickness. If you are buying aluminum get the heaviest stuff you can afford. Look for double or triple bottoms which help distribute heat and make for more uniform cooking. Look for handles that are riveted on rather than held on with a screw. Lids should fit tightly. Teflon coatings are the norm anymore and are okay. Just remember that aluminum is a reactive metal so if it's not Teflon coated keep the tomatoes and other high acid foods out of it.

Production kitchens use a lot of aluminum cookware... but they use Chef grade which is rather thick and usually alloyed with a few other metals to make it harder. The reason aluminum is used is basically weight. They are easier to move and work with than heavier items. Over the course of an 8 hour day that makes a huge difference. Kitchen supply stores are a good place to look for chef grade items. Most will sell to the general public.

Stainless Steel is the reigning king of the kitchen and for good reason. It is non reactive, distributes heat quickly and evenly, difficult to bend or warp, won't stain and very easy to clean up. As with aluminum look for double or triple bottoms on stainless steel cookware. Because stainless steel is so dense it can be made rather thin and still perform well. But thin metals also tend to dissipate heat quickly so to even things out a thicker bottom on the pans will give a more uniform heating and help moderate changes in the burner settings.

Here too look for handles that are riveted on. Rivets are one indicator of quality cookware. The lids should fight tightly and can be made of almost anything. The stuff in my kitchen is glass with a stainless rim and Bakelite handles.... which means they can take oven temperatures to 400 degrees without a problem.

Stainless can also come as Teflon coated. Teflon has come a long way since it's introduction and the higher quality stuff is very durable. Just use common sense and keep metal utensils out of your Teflon coated things. Wood, plastic or silicon is okay though. If you are on a low fat diet Teflon is your best bet to help you. Most foods can go into a "dry" pan and not stick. As I said before I duplicated several of my pans. One straight stainless and another with the Teflon coating.

End Notes

It's like your parents told you. If you buy the good stuff you'll never regret it. Since good cookware can be 2 to 3 times the price of the cheap stuff it's best to acquire it piece at a time. If you have a recipe that says you'll need a 10" saute' pan that's a good time to head to the store. (a saute' pan has sloped sides while the sides of a frying pan are vertical) If you buy your cookware this way you'll spread the cost out over several months or years and that will make affording the good stuff that much easier. For your cash outlay you'll be rewarded with years and years of dependable service and thousands of wonderful gourmet meals.

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Cooking Basics - Part 1

Hi and welcome to my 3rd blog! This one obviously deals with my favorite hobby, gourmet cooking. Do NOT be frightened by the term "Gourmet Cooking" because it's really not all that difficult. Cooking comes in several levels from basic survival (something dead on a stick in fire) to regular (your mom's pot roast) to Gourmet and Chef level (mom's pot roast kicked up a bit with a fancy "presentation").

As you could tell from the very first post I try to keep things fun yet informative. Cooking SHOULD be fun! It's a creative process so don't be afraid to experiment. Notice I said "cooking" was a creative process and feel free to experiment.

Here is your first rule to remember. Go as crazy as you want with cooking. It's very forgiving and a basic recipe can be bent and twisted all over the place. (I've started out making something French and ended up with Chinese) Baking, however, is a science... it's chemistry! When baking follow the directions to the letter and DO NOT substitute or attempt to get fancy. Unless you've graduated from a culinary arts school and majored in baking the reward for deviating from the instructions will usually be something fit only for the trash can. For example.... NO... baking powder and baking soda are NOT the same!

COMMON STUFF

Cooking all around the world has certain things in common. It doesn't matter if you're in the steppes of Russia or the coast of New England. Think about it.... what's common?

Answer? Meat and vegetables. Now the type or kind of meat will vary. Beef, pork, lamb, and goat are all fairly common. Meat also includes regular fish, shell fish (Clams and other bi-valves) , crustaceans (crab & lobster) and even yucky stuff like octopus, squid, sea urchins and sea cucumbers. Basically if it doesn't eat you first it's fair game for the table.

Oh... if you're a hunter, check that endangered species list... the Government would frown on Cream of Bald Eagle soup. Also, no matter what you may have heard, don't even think about road kill. (Even if you accidentally killed it!) Generally internal organ damage will occur which contaminates the meat. Stick with the meat department at your local grocery store.... okay? Vegetables shouldn't require an explanation. For most folks those were the things you couldn't leave the table until you ate them things. Stuff like broccoli, spinach, cauliflower etc.

WHAT'S DIFFERENT?

Okay, what's different? Think about it for a minute and it becomes obvious. Seasonings or spices! Usually these are herbs prepared various ways (Rosemary - fresh clippings from a live bush, dried leaves (actually small needle like things) or dried and ground into a powder) but they can be local (indigenous) plants. (various peppers etc.)

It's the spices and seasonings that make the BIG difference! After a little while you can tell which part of the world a dish came from just by the spices and seasonings used. Mexican food doesn't taste the same as Greek food, does it? Why? The use of native herbs and seasonings. Different things grow well in different countries. People use what is available to season what they cook. What's available varies with the latitude, and climate of the particular country. Even soil conditions can make a difference as certain things only grow well in a particular type of soil.

Methods of cooking also can be different. Frying produces a different result than baking. Grilling produces yet another result. Slow cooking or broiling yet other results. Boiling gives yet another result as does curing or drying (dehydrating). And not all methods work well for all things. For example boiling shell fish or lobster works quite nicely. A boiled t-bone, however, is just plain WRONG and a waste of good beef! Stick with what works best.

Another tip! Use FRESH, high quality ingredients when you're cooking. This is especially true of spices. If you can't remember when you bought that little red and yellow can of oregano it's best to toss it and get a new can or bottle. Unless you cook a LOT get the smaller size even though it's slightly more expensive per oz when you buy it. After all.... if you don't use it all within 4 to 6 months.... how much are you saving to toss it and go buy a fresh one?

Okay... that's it for Part 1 of cooking basics. Too much information and you end up with fried brains and no sauce to dip them in. I'll try to keep these little posts "bite sized" for easy digestion. However... before you think you're getting off easy... I have a homework assignment for you. (Oh NO! Not HOMEWORK!) Relax... this you'll enjoy.

Go out to eat at your favorite restaurant. (NO! McDonalds or other fast food places don't count!) Find something good on the menu and if it lists the ingredients make note of them or even write them down. Don't worry about not having quantities. When the meal comes refer to your list and attempt to identify as many listed ingredients as you can by taste. Also get a sense of the aroma and texture of the dish. To make this easy.... I'd recommend a good Italian place... but no matter where you go keep notes and a good mental record of the meal. You'll need them for the next assignment!

Stritzil

STRITZIL


This is the recipe for a German/Austrian holiday bread known as Stritzil. It was brought to America 4 or 5 generations ago and has been in the family since. Stollen is another holiday bread made in Europe, Germany and Austria in particular, but it uses citrus and isn't the same.

I've tried to compile an ingredient list from the original hand written copy I have which was made from watching someone make the bread. She learned how from her mother and her mother from her mother etc. Also this recipe calls for “Scalded milk” which may be a new term for some of you. To scald milk proceed as follows:

To scald milk: Place milk in a heavy-bottomed pan on low heat. Stir occasionally until milk is just hot with steam and small bubbles start to appear around the edges; do not boil. Remove from the heat.


BASIC INGREDIENTS

1 cup warm water

1 Tbsp. Sugar

2 FRESH packages dry yeast

1-1/2 cup scalded milk

1 stick butter

1 cup sugar

1-1/2 Tsp salt

2 eggs

1 cup all purpose flour

1-1/2 Tbsp. Anise seeds (crushed)

1 to 1-1/2 cups white raisins (optional) OR candied fruit (also optional)

1 medium mixing bowl and 2 LARGE mixing bowls (or wash one between steps)

You will also need 4 to 8 (maybe more) additional cups of flour. Sift all flour and just go by volume (cups) rather than weight.


GETTING STARTED

Place 1 cup warm water in a medium mixing bowl. Dissolve 1 Tbsp sugar and add the two packages of NEW (check the dates) dried yeast. Stir GENTLY (couple of seconds). Put in a warm place and let stand until foamy.

NOTE: Either turn on an oven for a couple of minutes or place a damp towel in a microwave oven for about a minute. (I'd form the towel into a ring along the outside edge of the glass table inside) Turn off regular oven (or microwave) place the yeast mixture inside and let it work.


MIXING STUFF

While the yeast is working put 1-1/2 cup scalded milk into a LARGE mixing bowl. Add 1 stick of butter (the real stuff works best) 1 cup of sugar and 1-1/2 tsp salt. Mix well (everything melted and dissolved) and let cool.

LET'S BEAT IT!

Beat 2 eggs until well blended. (About a minute) Add the cooled milk mixture you made earlier and 1 cup of flour. Mix throughly while slowly adding the yeast mixture. Once the yeast mixture is incorporated continue to add flour until thick. Add 1-1/2 Tbsp crushed Anise seeds.

NOTE: To crush the Anise seeds fold a two foot sheet of waxed paper in half. Place Anise seeds in between and crush with a rolling pin or other heavy object. (Actually a brick wrapped in several layers of heavy duty foil works wonders!) Of course if you have a spice grinder set it to medium and go for it.

I KNEAD YOU

At this point you may add the optional white raisins or candied fruit. Continue mixing and slowly adding flour until the dough is thick enough to knead. You can do this by hand (the fun way) OR use a HIGH POWER stand type mixer with a dough hook. (If your mixer didn't come with a dough hook it probably isn't powerful enough so don't try to use it) Continue kneading on a large flat surface onto which you've sprinkled a generous amount of flour. (OR in your stand mixer) Add flour (SLOWLY) as you knead until the dough is ready. (it will be elastic and not sticky)

RISE & SHINE

Take a LARGE mixing bowl and butter the inside well. (Clean hands work best for this... but remember to have a towel handy or leave warm water running so you can wash when done) Place the kneaded dough into the bowl and cover with a small towel. Let it rise until doubled in size. (I use a dish towel and lightly mist it with water from a spray bottle until barely damp) Since this takes an hour or so make a pot of coffee... clean up your table and other utensils... and relax for a while.

SMACK DOWN

Once the dough has doubled in size punch it down (Yep! Drive your fist right into the middle) then knead it until you can form a large loaf. (not more than 30 seconds for this!) Cut the loaf into pieces somewhere between baseball and softball size. (you'll just have to experiment) These should roll out (by hand) into a long roll about ping-pong ball size (diameter) and be roughly 12 to 14 inches long. You'll need three for each loaf.

BRAID – RISE & BAKE

Take three of the ropes and lay them side by side on a flat surface. (Slightly floured helps) Pinch one set of ends together then braid until you reach the other end. Again pinch the ends together. If you have parchment paper line a baking sheet with it. If not lightly oil the bottom with a good cooking oil. Place the braided loaf on the pan, cover with a towel and let rise again. (about an hour) Bake in a pre-heated 375 degree oven until golden brown. (I'd take a peek after about 30 minutes and then every 5 minutes after that until the color is right. Make note of the time for future reference. Since oven temperatures can vary quite a bit from the dial setting this isn't an exact science. You'll probably end up somewhere between 40 and 50 minutes)


COOL – FROST & EAT

When golden brown remove from the oven and place on racks to cool. Lightly brush with melted butter to help keep the crust from getting too dry. While cooling make a simple powdered sugar frosting (if desired). For the frosting you'll need the following:

2 cups powdered (confectioners) sugar
2 Tbsp. Milk
1 tsp. Vanilla extract

Place 2 cups of powered sugar in a medium mixing bowl. Add milk and vanilla and stir until throughly blended. (NOTE: It's best to add ½ the milk at first then gradually add the rest until the desired consistency is reached.) It should be thin enough to drizzle from a spoon not thick enough to spread. (you may leave this white or add a drop of food coloring if desired)

When the bread is cool drizzle the frosting over the loaves to what ever level of coverage you desire. You may also sprinkle colored sugar crystals onto the frosting for an added festive touch. Slice and enjoy lightly buttered or plain.




COMMENTS?
If you have comments about this recipe please send them to joe_ruyle@yahoo.com